With its striking white and blue buildings shining against the coffee-colored volcanic cliffs and crystal-clear azure waters, Puerto de las Nieves is a village of contrasts. Located near Agaete on the northwestern coast of Gran Canaria, the third largest of Spain’s Canary Islands, it’s an easy day trip from the capital of Las Palmas.
A former fishing village, this charming port now caters more to tourism. But colorfully painted vessels still dot the marina next to the imposing white and yellow car ferries that whisk visitors off to Tenerife. The village is known for a towering basalt pillar known as the Dedo de Dios (Finger of God), located near the cliffs south of the beach. The pinnacle was damaged during a storm in 2005, but the formation is still visible from the end of the fishing pier.
During my three months in Gran Canaria, Puerto de las Nieves became one of my favorite villages and a place where I frequently took visitors. Discover the natural and laid-back beauty of Puerto de las Nieves through its volcanic beaches, saltwater pools, and charming waterfront.
Getting to Puerto de las Nieves
Puerto de las Nieves is only about 20 miles from Las Palmas, and it’s easy to get there by bus or car.
By car
If you’re driving, simply hop on GC-2, a scenic highway that hugs the rugged coastline. Enjoy a picturesque 30-minute drive, passing banana plantations and surf breaks, until arriving at the port village.
The port has paid parking (€2-3 for the day) near the center. There is also free parking near the natural pools, but the road to access the lot is a bit rough.
By bus
Coming by bus is also straightforward. The L103 and L130 have several stops in Las Palmas, making it easy to catch a bus from various parts of the city. The L130 is a bit faster as it has fewer stops, but either will get you there in around 45 minutes to an hour.
These buses are the blue Global buses (guaguas in the Canary Islands) and will cost about €3-4 to get to Puerto de las Nieves. You can pay by card or cash when boarding; just let the driver know your destination, and they’ll print you a ticket.
Relax on the volcanic beach
Puerto de las Nieves is home to a striking black stone beach, and regardless of the time of year, you’ll likely see families and couples sprawled out on its volcanic shores. The beach is divided into two by a historic fishing pier: The left side offers unobstructed views of the rugged shoreline and the iconic Dedo de Dios, while the right side is protected by the marina and offers shallow waters for children to swim.
Spread a towel out across the lava rocks to sunbathe under the Canarian sun, or don a mask and snorkel to explore below the crystalline surface. The left side by the fishing pier is better for snorkeling, as the rocky bottom and clear waters reward with schools of silvery fish and even the odd parrotfish. For volcanic beaches like this, I recommend bringing water shoes, as the lava stones can be sharp and uncomfortable to walk on.
Take a dip in Las Salinas (Natural Saltwater Pools)
The Canary Islands are renowned for their natural pools, or piscinas naturales. One of my favorite things to do in Puerto de las Nieves is to visit Las Salinas, the saltwater pools. These natural pools are carved into the volcanic shoreline, making them the perfect spot to enjoy a dip in the ocean without the turbulence from oncoming waves. The rocky breakwater is fortified by a row of wooden pillars, meaning the pools are generally tranquil even while the swell beats against the shore.
The complex consists of three organically shaped saltwater pools, complete with steps carved into the rock and added ladders and handrails for easy entrance and exit. The pools are gin-clear with rocky bottoms and are chock full of locals and tourists alike on the weekends, so either arrive early or come late afternoon.
There are bathrooms near the pools (although often without soap or toilet paper) and a food truck selling snacks and drinks. There is also a parking lot nearby, but people say the road to get there is uneven and tough on tires.
Explore the center and eat on the waterfront
The charming village center features a jumble of white-washed buildings and blue trim, housing restaurants, gift shops, and cafes. At the center of town is the Ermita Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, a 16th-century catholic church. The interior is decorated to salute the port’s fishing heritage with suspended model boats and a triptych dedicated to Our Lady of las Nieves.
The tiny port is bustling during the weekends, and there’s no better place to spend a Sunday afternoon than at one of the restaurants overlooking the marina. The most famous (often with a line out the door) is Restaurante el Dedo de Dios, located just off the fishing pier, overlooking the volcanic beach and sweeping Roque Faneque — one of the highest cliffs in the world. Be sure to try parrillada de pescado, a variety of grilled fish and seafood.
Hike to Guayedra Beach
Those looking to escape the weekend beach crowds in Puerto de las Nieves can hike the coastline over to Guayedra Beach. This remote beach is located at the end of the Guayedra Ravine and features striking black sand and large volcanic stones. Although it’s known as a nudist beach, almost everyone was wearing a swimsuit when I visited.
Guayedra Beach is a 2-mile hike from Puerto de las Nieves, with over 1,000 feet in elevation change. There is a small section where you have to walk on the highway before descending into the ravine.
The trail offers spectacular views of the chocolate brown Roque Feneque and the pine forests of Tamadaba Natural Park, taking you down into the ravine past large tangles of prickly pear cactus and skittish lizards. After about an hour of hiking, you’ll arrive at the tranquil beach. While peaceful and away from the crowds of the port, Guayedra Beach is much less protected than Puerto de las Nieves and often has large swell, so take care when swimming.
*Be sure to check for trail closures. When I visited in November 2024, the trail was only open on the weekends due to ongoing construction in the area.
Visit an archaeological site in Agaete
Puerto de las Nieves is close to the municipality of Agaete, just over one mile inland from the port village. This sleepy town is quiet, even on weekends, but it’s home to an interesting archeological site.
The Maipés de Agaete is a significant funerary complex home to hundreds of tombs belonging to the Guanche, the former Indigenous inhabitants of the Canary Islands. The complex is set within a desolate volcanic landscape, the name “Maipés” meaning badlands for its stark appearance and lack of vegetation. The archeological site features a set of walkways and trails that take visitors past the impressive mounded tombs built on top of the ancient lava flow, with information panels along the way.
Entry only costs a few euros, paid by cash or card on entry (there’s no need to book ahead). Check online for their latest hours of operation.
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