Travel in Egypt often conjures up images of vibrant outdoor bazaars, felucca boats drifting down the Nile, and millennia-old archeological sites. However, for those seeking a bit of peace and quiet, the town of Dahab on Egypt’s Red Sea feels worlds away from the chaos and traffic of major tourist destinations like Cairo. Located in the southern Sinai Peninsula and framed by golden mountains overlooking sparkling sapphire water, this stretch of coastline has become a popular spot for water sports lovers and vacationers.
Dahab is home to a kitesurfing lagoon, dive shops around every corner, and accessible snorkeling spots for those who don’t want to wear an oxygen tank. The bohemian atmosphere, defined by quaint seaside bungalows, waterfront cafes, and artisan pop-up displays, quickly cemented it as one of my favorite places in Egypt (and the world). From snorkeling spots and hiking recommendations to my favorite seafood and brunch restaurants, here’s everything you need to know about visiting Egypt’s bohemian beach town.
Getting to Dahab
Bus from Cairo
There are minivans/buses from Cairo that go all the way to the Sinai Peninsula. The journey takes around 8 hours, and there are many passport and security checkpoints along the way, but it is the most economical transport option. 12Go has the latest minibus schedules.
Flight then taxi
There are direct flights from Cairo and other major European hubs to the Red Sea resort city of Sharm el-Sheikh. From the airport, it’s about an hour’s drive to Dahab. Some people recommend the ridesharing app inDrive (Uber doesn’t operate in Sinai), though I’d recommend arranging a transfer/taxi through your accommodation. The cost ended up being about the same (around 35 USD one-way), and I had a negative experience with the inDrive driver.
Snorkeling in Dahab
Perched directly on the Red Sea, Dahab has easy access to several great snorkeling spots. Most of the beaches here are fairly small and not well-suited to an afternoon of sunbathing, but beyond the sand lies a thriving marine environment. The underwater flora and fauna of the Red Sea were some of the best I’ve ever experienced, with huge coral gardens and schools of colorful fish.
Eel Garden
Named for the small garden eels that poke above the sand along the edge of this reef, Eel Garden was my favorite area to snorkel in Dahab. This spot are accessible from a small beach directly beside the Eel Garden View restaurant on the way to Assalah Beach. The coral gardens begin several hundred feet offshore, where what looks like a small underwater canyon opens up into deeper ocean. Aside from eels, you can spot lionfish, bright anemones, and clownfish.
**The current in Eel Garden can be dangerous during bad weather. Make sure to check the conditions or ask at the restaurant before swimming out.
Google Maps location: next to Eel Garden View
Lighthouse Reef
Located in the center of town on the main bay, Lighthouse Reef is one of Dahab’s most accessible snorkeling spots. While there isn’t much true beach here, there’s a rocky platform in front of Bedouin Sons restaurant not far from where the reef begins. From here, the coral shelf is just a short swim out and to the left.
Google Maps location: in front of Lighthouse Divecenter
Islands Dive Site
Islands Dive Site is just off Laguna Beach, on the opposite side of the kitesurfing lagoon. It’s slightly outside the main center, making it less crowded than the other spots. This was my least favorite entry, as the water is shallow and the bottom is extremely rocky, requiring an unpleasant walk out to the drop-off. Though once you’re out there, the coral shelf is amazing.
*This is another spot to exercise caution with the current.
Google Maps location: Islands Dive Site
Kitesurfing in Dahab
People primarily come to Dahab for two reasons: diving or kitesurfing. If you’re not scuba diving, Dahab’s lagoon is excellent for beginner kitesurfers, as it’s fairly large and shallow. The kite season runs from May to October, though you can still score a few windy days during winter.
There are several kite schools clustered around the lagoon that offer lessons and gear rentals. I did three lessons with Jeep Kitesurfing and had a positive experience. The gear is high-quality, and the instructors were equal parts entertaining and motivating.
To book a lesson with Jeep Kitesurfing, message them on WhatsApp: +20 106 425 3222
For more experienced riders or those looking for an immersive week of kiting, the Blue Lagoon, north of Dahab, offers accommodation and kitesurfing camps right on the water. This is a more remote experience, as apart from the kite schools and a few restaurants, the lagoon is surrounded by quiet desert.
Hiking near Dahab
Dahab is surrounded by South Sinai’s arid mountains, a striking sepia contrast against the sapphire sea. In addition to being a beautiful backdrop, the area is home to a number of scenic hiking trails.
One of the most accessible hikes is an unmarked route at the northern end of Assalah Beach. The trail starts from the left side of the Bedouin Moon Hotel, and from here, sandy paths snake up into the hills overlooking Dahab, making for excellent sunrise and sunset spots. The closest viewpoint to the hotel often has a man at the top selling tea beside a campfire, though it’s just as easy to climb any of the surrounding hills for a quieter experience.
For a day trip, hiking Mount Sinai and the White and Colored Canyons are both very popular excursions from Dahab.
Mount Sinai
The tours for Mount Sinai often begin with an evening pickup (around 10 p.m.), followed by transport to St. Catherine. The hike is around 7 miles round trip, reaching the summit for sunrise. While watching the sun rise above the sea of mountains was spectacular, this route is heavily oriented toward tourists. There are kiosks and stalls the entire way up with snacks, drinks, and souvenirs, which, for me, detracted from the natural setting.
White and Colored Canyons
Hiking through the White and Colored Canyons is another popular outing, where 4×4 Jeeps whisk you across sand dunes into the desert. I was impressed by the White Canyon, where an hour-long hike takes you past towering limestone walls, ending with a traditional Bedouin lunch at the Ain Khudra Oasis.
After another hair-raising drive through the desert, the tour continues at the Colored Canyon. This small canyon only takes about 20 minutes to walk through, with some interesting sandstone formations along the way. The Colored Canyon is sometimes falsely marketed as the Red Canyon, an impressive sandstone slot canyon that requires a private guide to visit.
*Be sure to wear proper footwear, as the entrance to the White Canyon involves a descent using ropes and sliding down large boulders.
Day trip to the Blue Hole
The Blue Hole is the pinnacle of diving and snorkeling in this part of the Red Sea, and I’ll attest that it was one of the most spectacular marine environments I’ve ever seen. While this sinkhole is famous among technical divers for its underwater tunnel, the Arch, located 170 feet below the surface, the vibrant coral overhangs are easily enjoyed by amateur snorkelers.
The entrance is via a narrow rocky chimney called the Bells. While scuba divers often descend along the chimney, snorkelers will hang a right and continue along the coral wall towards the Blue Hole.
The Blue Hole is a few miles north of Dahab and easily reached via a coastal track in a taxi or Jeep. There are also tons of snorkeling tours offered that include the Blue Hole, Blue Lagoon, and Ras Abu Galum, a protected marine area and stunning snorkeling spot. I paid around 35 USD for a day trip that included all three and some snacks and tea.
Eat Seafood!
Egypt was an absolute underdog for me when it came to seafood, and some of my best-ever meals were eaten right here in Dahab. If you’re looking for good seafood in Dahab, these two spots should be on your radar.
Darwish
If you ask for a seafood restaurant recommendation in Dahab, odds are they’ll send you to Darwish. While this place is incredibly popular, it is absolutely worth the hype. On weekends, the outdoor tables are packed with foreigners and Egyptians chowing down on crispy calamari, butterflied shrimp, and Singari-style mullet, accompanied by tahini and rice.
Prices are by weight, and you can select your seafood from the icy displays in the outdoor side room. Some of my most memorable evenings were shared here with friends, cramming as many different dishes as possible onto the table.
Miami
This no-frills spot offers a smaller seafood selection than Darwish, but the atmosphere at Miami is cozy, and the garlic prawns were some of the best I’ve ever had. You can choose your fish or shrimp from the refrigerated cases by the kitchen.
Enjoy an Egyptian Breakfast
I’m a big fan of an Egyptian breakfast spread, from foul, a fragrant stew of cumin, garlic, and fava beans, to fluffy ta’ameya (falafel) and savory shakshouka. Dahab has plenty of great choices, whether you’re looking for classic Egyptian dishes or a Westernized brunch, though these two are my favorites.
Tim’s Munch
Tim’s Munch is my favorite brunch restaurant in Dahab. Perched on a rooftop above the H2O Dive Shop, this place is almost always busy, but the friendly guys manning the coffee bar will find a spot to squeeze you in. I became somewhat of a regular here during my three weeks in Dahab and tried most of the menu. Shashouka was my go-to, though the foul and eggs tajine and sweet French toast were also standouts, and the mushroom French toast is great if you’re in the mood for something hearty.
Yum Yum
With a bright yellow storefront and outdoor tables shaded by red and white umbrellas, Yum Yum is a popular spot for an authentic, affordable Egyptian breakfast. Everything is ordered à la carte here and served in small terracotta bowls. The ta’ameya is particularly good — crispy on the outside and fluffy, vibrant green on the inside. Pair an order with creamy baba ganoush, fried eggplant, and an omelette.